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33 Years Later, Le Bernardin is still the New York's Top Seafood Splurge

     Salmon, in its most popular form in New York, is distinctly unappealing. Adam Platt of New York magazine once referred to it as the "Cheerios of restaurant cuisine," before noting that it was "predictable" and "useless" to critics. In reality, the final time Pete Wells emphatically utilized the word salmon in one of his uncommon four-star audits was in 2012 when he composed up Le Bernardin, Eric Ripert, and Maguy Le Coze’s French fish royal residence within the Theater Locale. It was just a passing mention. I'll be a little longer.      Do one thing to understand why Le Bernardin is still one of the city's most exciting and technically astute restaurants, a gem of a splurge that won't break the bank as much as other fine dining establishments: order the salmon.      It's best served raw with Moroccan seasonings. Flawless rectangles of angle sit on the plate-like taps of creamsicle-colored butter. They soften on the tongue, discharging ...

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